How to Spot a Fake 1943 Copper Penny: Essential Tools and Red Flags

Every now and then, a coin grabs the world’s attention — and the 1943 copper penny is one of those rare cases. At first glance, it looks like any ordinary cent. But under the right conditions, that tiny coin could be worth hundreds of thousands of dollars.

The buzz around the 1943 copper penny value started when collectors realized just how few of them exist — and how valuable they’ve become at auction. Most 1943 pennies were made of steel, not copper, due to wartime needs. So when a few copper versions surfaced, they became instant legends.

With all the excitement and the chance of a big payday, fakes quickly followed. Today, there are far more counterfeits than real ones — and some are surprisingly convincing. That is why knowing how to spot the difference matters more than ever.

The Accidental Rarity: How the 1943 Copper Penny Came to Exist

The story behind this coin starts with a simple mistake. In 1943, the U.S. Mint switched from copper to zinc-coated steel to conserve copper for World War II. The change was successful — mostly. 

A few leftover copper blanks from 1942 accidentally made it into the presses, creating a tiny batch of 1943 pennies struck in bronze instead of steel.

Here’s what makes the 1943 copper penny so rare:

• Only a small number of copper planchets were used by mistake.

• Most known examples came from the Philadelphia Mint (no mint mark).

• Even fewer were struck in Denver (D) or San Francisco (S).

• The only known 1943-D copper penny is unique and fully verified.

• These coins were never meant to exist — making them true minting errors.

Fun Fact: Experts believe only 10 to 15 genuine copper examples are known today, though others may still be sitting unnoticed in private hands or collections.

Record-Breaking Sales: Confirmed Auction Results

The buzz isn’t just hype, because the real 1943 copper pennies have sold for serious money. Here are some confirmed and documented sales:

Collector Tip: Prices vary depending on the coin’s condition (grade), color (Brown, Red-Brown, Red), and the mint it came from. A red Proof coin in pristine shape can fetch far more than a worn example, but both can be life-changing finds.

How to Identify a Fake: Visual and Physical Clues

When it comes to the 1943 copper penny, authenticity is everything. With only a handful of known examples, your chances of owning a genuine one are incredibly slim but not impossible. That is why it is important to know how to tell a real coin from a fake. Even experienced collectors double-check these details before making any assumptions.

Let’s break down the key signs to watch for if you ever encounter a 1943 penny that looks like it’s made of copper.

1. Material Check: Weight, Magnetism, and Color

Start with the basics — what the coin is made of.

• Weight: A genuine 1943 copper penny should weigh around 3.11 grams. If it’s significantly lighter or heavier, it’s likely fake.

• Magnetism: Hold a magnet next to the coin. If it sticks, it’s made of steel, not copper. Genuine copper coins are non-magnetic.

• Color: Authentic copper cents from this era have a natural, slightly dull brownish or reddish tone — not a shiny, bright red like newly minted pennies or polished fakes.

Be cautious with color. Some forgers apply artificial toning or polish the surface to make fakes look more “authentic.”

2. The Magnet Test: Simple but Effective

This is one of the easiest tests you can do at home — and it’s surprisingly effective.

• Just take a household magnet and see if the coin reacts.

• All genuine 1943 copper cents are non-magnetic.

• If the coin sticks, it’s almost certainly a regular steel cent, not copper.

Tip: Combine this with a weight test for a more reliable result.

3. The Date: Altered Digits Are Common

Many fakes aren’t made from scratch — they are altered from existing coins.

• The most common trick? Taking a 1948 copper penny and grinding down the “8” to look like a “3.”

• Look closely at the shape of the numbers. The “3” on authentic 1943 pennies has a very specific curve and spacing.

Compare your coin to clear, high-resolution images of verified 1943 copper cents from trusted sources (like PCGS or NGC). That small difference in the “3” might tell you everything.

4. Mint Marks: D and S Versions Are Extremely Rare

While most known 1943 copper pennies were minted in Philadelphia (no mint mark), there are very few known examples with “D” (Denver) or “S” (San Francisco) mint marks.

• Counterfeiters often add these letters manually.

• Real mint marks should be cleanly struck, aligned properly, and consistent with official minting styles.

Expert Tip: Use a jeweler’s loupe (at least 10x magnification) to inspect the area around the mint mark. If you see file marks, irregular shapes, or unnatural spacing, it's likely been altered.

Can You Check It at Home? Yes — With the Right Tools

Before you rush to a professional grading service, you can do some basic detective work right at home. While these tools won’t replace expert certification, they can help you filter out obvious fakes and prepare for the next step.

Here is what you will need:

Pro tip: Take high-resolution photos in good lighting from multiple angles — obverse, reverse, and edge. This makes online evaluations easier if you want a second opinion before paying for certification.

When to Involve the Experts

If your 1943 penny passes the weight test, doesn’t stick to a magnet, and looks convincingly copper — congratulations, you are dealing with something rare enough to warrant professional attention.

So when exactly should you contact an expert?

Simple: as soon as your coin checks all the main boxes — weight, metal, and visual features. You don’t want to risk guessing or relying on incomplete research. Reach out to reputable certification services like:

• PCGS (Professional Coin Grading Service)

• NGC (Numismatic Guaranty Company)

These organizations can authenticate the coin, grade its condition, and provide documentation that proves its legitimacy — which is essential if you ever plan to sell or insure the coin.

Important: Never try to sell a coin that might be a rare 1943 copper penny without professional certification. In some jurisdictions, knowingly selling or even offering a counterfeit can be illegal — even if you didn’t mean to deceive anyone.

Fun Fact: Most major auction houses (including Heritage Auctions and Stack’s Bowers) will not accept a 1943 copper penny for sale unless it’s already authenticated and graded by a recognized authority like PCGS or NGC. That is how rare and valuable (and often faked) this coin is.

More Than Just a Penny

The 1943 copper penny remains one of the most fascinating coins in U.S. history — not just because of its value, but because of the mystery and myth surrounding it. While the odds of finding a real one are extremely slim, the number of fakes in circulation makes knowledge your best line of defense. Understanding or knowing the right things like what to look for, what tools to use, and when to consult experts can save you time, money, and unnecessary excitement.